from: Dilwyn Jenkins: The
rough guide to Peru; Rough Guides, New York London, Delhi;
6th edition September 2006; www.roughguides.com
Arrival, information and city transport
You will either arrive in Lima by
plane, landing at the Jorge Chavez airport,
7km northwest of the city center, by
bus, most of which
arrive in the older, more central areas of town, or perhaps
by train from the Andes right into the city center, if and
when the service ever reopens.
Driving into the city is really only for
the adventurous, as the roads are highly congested with
sometimes frustrating traffic levels plus the general
madness of fellow drivers, which will either turn you insane
or into an equally skillful but unpredictable road hog.
Wherever you arrive, it can be a disorienting experience, as
there are few landmarks to register the direction of the
center of town.
[Telephone dialing code for Lima is 01, international
0051-1].
Arrival by air
After landing at the modern, bustling
Jorge Chavez airport (flight
inquiries
T.
5950666, main number for international and
T. 5745529 for
domestic), the quickest way into the city is by taxi, which
will take around 45 minutes to Lima Centro or downtown
Miraflores. [When you leave the airport there are some taxi
driver waiting for customers urging you into their taxi, but
you can chose]. The simplest way is to book an
official taxi [
with
registration number on the
car e.g. the little yellow taxis] (to most parts of
Lima for $15) from the taxi kiosk inside the terminal. If
you don't use this service, remember it is very important to
fix the price in Peruvian soles with the driver before
getting in. It can be in
US$,
if you need, but what you want to avoid is thinking you're
paying soles only to find (p.86) out the driver wants the
same number of notes, but in US$. An unofficial taxi to Lima
Centro or Miraflores [
without registration
number] can usually be found for between $5 and $8 if you're
prepared to haggle and shop around during daylight hours.
Some taxis wait two road lanes away from the terminal
building, within the gates; they are usually official radio
taxis and negotiate their price ($5-10 should be enough to
get you to most parts of central Lima or Miraflores). Take
extra care looking for a taxi around the airport perimeter
and on the road into Lima, as there have been
thefts in these areas. A
cheaper and generally efficient alternative is to take the
airport
express bus
that usually leaves from outside domestic arrivals doors,
some heading for Miraflores, others for Lima Centro via
Tacna; tickets are $5 per person.
If you need to
change
money at the airport, there are counters (24hr;
reasonably competitive rates) located close to the entry to
the flight departure lounges, but you'll get better rates in
the center of Lima or Miraflores. [So change only little on
the airport and you will change afterwards in town more]
(S.87).
Tourist information offices and tours
Tourist
information
offices in Lima are plentiful but rather dispersed.
-- The main public municipalidad office of Información
Turística [Tourist Information], C Los Escribanos 145, Plaza
Mayor (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 10am-2pm;
T. 3151300 ext 1542) in
Lima Centro, provides good information and occasionally
maps. The Municipal Tourist Division, at the Palacio
Municipal (
T.
3151505, 3151541 or 3151542), specialized in information on
the center of Lima and has five useful suggested routes to
explore the city.
In Miraflores, there are
--
tourist information
point, based in the central Parque 7 de Junio
(daily 9am-2pm & 2.30-7pm), rather small
--
Central de Información
y Promoción Turística, Avenida Larco 770 (p.87)
(Mon-Fri 9am-1pm & 2-5pm;
T. 4463959 ext 114,
www.miraflores.gob.pe
and
www.regionlima.gob.pe),
usually has leaflets, information and some
maps
of Lima and around
--
South American
Explorers' Club (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5pm, Wed until 8pm;
e-mail
limaclub@saexplorers.org,
see p.124) has good information, including
maps,
listings and travel reports, available to its members.
More tourist offices:
-- office of
Información y
Asistencia al Turista from i-peru, Jirón Jorge
Basadre 610 in San Isidro (Mon-Fri 9.30am-5pm until 8pm on
Wed;
T. 4211227 or
4211627, e-mail
iperulima@promperu.gob.pe),
also has a range of information sheets on regions and cities
of Peru, but their main function is providing assistance for
tourists if they have serious complaints or wish to take
legal actions against Peruvian tourism operators who have
failed to fulfill their contracts; they also have an office
in the main hall at the airport (
T. 5748000) (p.88).
Some of the commercial
tour
companies (see p.120) are also geared up for
offering good tourist information, notably Fertur Peru and
Lima Vision, who both provide city tours. The
Peru Guide, published
in Peru monthly by Lima Editora S.A., Avenida Benavides 1180
(
T. 6104242, e-mail
info@comunica2sac.com),
gives up-to-date information on most things in Lima, from
scheduled tours and treks to hotels, shopping, events and
practical advice; it's readily available in hotels, tour and
travel agents and information offices (p.121).
General informations
about traveling in Peru
--
Fertur Peru,
Jirón Junin 211, Lima Centro, Lima, t. 4260188, Fax 4271958,
e-mail fertur1@ferturperu.com, www.ferturperu.tripod.com, or
in Miraflores at [Jirón] Schell 485, T. 4451974, e-mail
fertur2@ferturperu.com
--
Infoperu, Jirón
de La Unión 1066, office 2, T. 4310117, e-mail
info@infoperu.com.pe, www.infoperu.com
run by two very helpful and knowledgeable ladies.
--
Lima Tours,
[Avenida] Pardo y Aliaga 698, San Isidro, Lima, T.
2222525, 4247560 or 4245110, Fax 3304488,
www.limatours.com.pe
--
Turpuno Viajes,
[Jirón] Belén 1040, near Plaza San Martín, T. 6196915,
e-mail info@turpuno.com, www.turpuno.com
--
Lima Vision,
[Jirón] Jr. Chiclayo 444, Miraflores, Lima, T. 4475323 or
4470482, Fax 4469969, e-mail limavision@limavision.com,
www.limavision.com
who do a variety of city tours, Pachacamac, Nasca and Cusco
--
Marili Tours,
[Jirón] Diez Canseco 392, Miraflores, Lima, T. 4440889,
2410142 or 2410384, e-mail marili@amauta.rcp.net.pe
who have guides and go to most of Peru, including Cusco,
Madre de Dios, Puno and the northern desert region
--
Overland Expeditions,
Jirón Emilio Fernandez 640, Lima Centro, Lima, T. 4247762
who specialize in the Lachay Reserve [in Huaura province of
Lima department]
--
Paracas Tours,
Avenida Rivera Navarette 723, San Isidro, Lima, T. 2222621,
e-mail paracas@paracastours.com.pe
small office but very professional air ticketing service
--
Peruvian Life,
[Jirón] C Diez Canseco 337, [Lima Central?] T. 4448825, Fax
4463246, e-mail peruvian@peru.itete.com.pe
--
Peruvian Safaris,
Avenida Inca Garcilaso de la Vega, [Lima Centro, Lima],
1334, T. 4316330
--
Rainforest Expeditions,
[Jirón] Aramburu 166-4b, Miraflores, Lima, T. 2214182 or
9638759, Fax 4218183, www.perunature.com
--
TEBAC, Jirón
Huascar 1152, Jesus Maria, T. 4232515
who specialize in trips to Marcahuasi (p.120)
Information about trekking
in Peru
For
trekking advice
and trail maps, visit the
--
Trekking and
Backpacking Club, Jirón Huascar 1152, Jesus Maria,
Lima, T. 4232515, e-mail tebec@yahoo.com,
www.angelfire.com/mi2/tebec,
or the
--
South American
Explorers' Club (see p.45-46).
Of the
trekking companies,
most run trips to the Cordillera Blanca, around the Cusco
area and along the Inca Trail; some of the best are listed
below:
Trekking and biking
companies
--
Expediciones Mayuc,
[Jirón] Conquistadores 199, San Isidro, Lima, T. 4225988
One of Peru's best and longest established operators.
--
Explorandes,
[Jirón] San Fernando 320, Miraflores, Lima, T. 4450532 or
4458683, Fax 4454686
Itineraries to most areas of Peru, this company tailors
trips to individual interests as well as pre-packaged
expeditions. Another of Peru's best and longest established
operators. e-mail postmast@explorandes.com.pe,
www.explorandes.com
--
Incatrek, T.
2427843, e-mail incatrek@hotmail.com
This outfit sometimes runs tours to Tarma, Oxapampa, Pozuzo
and Satipo.
--
Panaca Tours,
Avenida Las Flores 695, Urb Santa Maria, Chosica, Lima 15,
T. 3644057
Organizes mountain biking and has specialist guides. Offers
a one-day option for Rimac Valley taking in Chosica, Ricardo
Palma and Santa Eulalia ($40 a person).
--
Peru Expeditions,
Avenida Arequipa 5241 Office 504, Miraflores, Lima, T.
4472057, Fax 4459683, e-mail asap@peru-expeditions.com,
www.peru-expeditions.com
A professional, helpful company specializing in
environmentally sound adventure travel in the Cusco region,
they offer trekking, mountain biking and 4WD tours, and
their leaders are experts in all kinds of adventure
activities. Also worth checking are their associated web
sites:
www.perumountainbike.com
www.peru4WD.net
www.incatreks.com
www.andesperu.com (p.121)
Information about rafting in
Peru
For
whitewater rafting
around Cusco and Huaraz, contact Explorandes
--
Explorandes,
[Jirón] San Fernando 320, Miraflores, Lima, T. 4450532 or
4458683, Fax 4454686
Itineraries to most areas of Peru, this company tailors
trips to individual interests as well as pre-packaged
expeditions. Another of Peru's best and longest established
operators. e-mail postmast@explorandes.com.pe,
www.explorandes.com
Information about cruising
on the sea
Cruise boats to the Islas Palomino to see the marine
mammals, quite a nice trip if the weather is clear, can be
joined through
-- Ecocruceros, Avenida Arequipa 4960, of 202, Miraflores,
Lima, T. 2426655, e-mail
ecocruceros@infonegocio.com.pe
Information about mountain
climbing
For advice on
mountain-climbing,
try the
-- Club Andino, Avenida Paseo de la República 932, T.
2637319
the
-- Asociación de Andinismo de la Universidad de Lima,
based at the university on [Avenida] Javier Prado Este, T.
4376767, meet Wed evenings),
or at the
-- Ursus mountain equipment store, [Jirón] Los Pinos 508,
Miraflores, Lima, T. 2545941
Information about rain
forest expeditions
Rainforest Expeditions, which offer jungle expeditions, have
an office at
-- Rainforest Expeditions, [Jirón] Aramburu 166-4b,
Miraflores, Lima, T. 2214182 or 9638759, Fax 4218183,
www.perunature.com (p.121)
Books and maps in Lima
English Books and maps
[Books are not so spread in South America as in Europe. Many
people only see their school books and then never a book
again. So one has to know precisely where to buy a book,
because not every district center has got a book shop. Lima
has got a "book street", this is Jirón Quilca in Lima
Center. In the neighborhood is Avenida Nicolas de Pierola
also with many book shops which is also in the Lima Center].
A few shops on Avenida Nicolas de Pierola stock
English-language books (try the store at no. 689), and
-- The Book Exchange, just around the corner at [Jirón]
Ocoña 211, sells or swaps second-hand paperbacks.
-- Epoca, Avenida José Pardo 399, Miraflores, has a good
range of titles including many in English.
-- The ABC Bookstores at Colmena 689, are well supplied with
all kinds of works in English, including books on Peru.
-- On the Jirón de la Unión, the Librería [book store] Ayza
usually has some interesting publications and maps, while
-- in Miraflores the Librería Ibero, at both [Jirón] Larco
199 and Avenida Oscar Benavides 500 (previously Diagonal),
generally have a wide range of books and magazines in
English (p.119).
Map kiosks and map
stores in Lima
[Maps are not to have in every book shop like in Europe.
There are only some special shops for maps. Generally only
military uses maps, normal Peruvian people have their family
connections and know the positions and ways by sight. The
bus system is NOT put into the town map. This is really
stupid, because tourists have all to learn by sight and give
out much money for taxis so there is not so much money left
for other things - and taxi drivers are lucky that the
tourists have no map with a bus system so tourists use more
the taxi...]
Good maps about Lima and Perú you can have in the
map kiosks:
-- kiosk on the corner of Jirón de La Union with the Plaza
San Martín
-- kiosk on the corner [Jirón] El Viajero del [Jirón] Sr.
Quispe Condori (Mon-Sat 9am-6pm,
T. 4235436)
These kiosks are specialized in guidebooks and maps for Lima
and Peru. [In these little kiosks the sellers have stored
more than you can think, detailed maps in a scale of
1:50,000 about half Peru is possible!]
The best city
map
is the
Lima Guía "Inca" de Lima Metropolitan
($13), but it is increasingly difficult to obtain and the
last edition was in 2001; newer, equally good and more
readily available from the stalls around Plaza San Martín
and most bookshops, the
Lima Por 4 is a
collection of Lima street maps in four districts (p.88).
Some map stores are indicated here:
Ingemmet
Avenida Canada 1470, San Borja, Lima, T. 2253158 (this store
stocks a wide range of maps)
Instituto Geográfico
Nacional
Avenida Aramburu 1190, Surquillo, Lima, T. 4753085 or
2245619, e-mail postmaster@ignperu.gob.pe (they offer charts
[maps] covering most of Peru in detail)
Servicio Aerofotografico
Nacional
Las Palmas Air force Base, Barranco, Lima, T. 4773682 (also
carries many highly detailed charts [maps] of Peru)
South American Explorers'
Club (p.45-46)
Touring y Automóvil Club de
Peru
Avenida Cesar Vallejo 699, Lince, Lima, T. 4403270 (good for
road maps, Mon-Fri 9am-5pm) (p. 119)
[-- map kiosk at Plaza San Martín with many maps]
Bus companies in Lima
The bus system of Peru:
private bus lines and bus terminals
[There is no national bus net. In Peru the bus companies
have different lines, and this makes it for Europeans very
complicated at the beginning. Add to this every bus company
has it's own bus terminal so there is no system and there is
a chaos of bus terminals. Most of them are in the Victoria
district, others are in Lima district or in Rimac district.
Victoria is the most dangerous district so go by taxi when
you have western tourist luggage with two suitcases etc.].
If you arrive in Lima by bus, you'll probably come in at one
of the bus terminals or offices of three of the most
reliable operators, Cruz del Sur, Ormeño or Tepsa, who all
have their offices on Avenida Javier Prado Este. Cruz del
Sur has its busy depot at Javier Prado Este 1109 (T.
2256163, www.cruzdelsur.com.pe) on the edge of La Victoria
and San Isidro; Ormeño, also have a depot a couple of blocks
further east. Other major companies tend to arrive in the
district of La Victoria along Avenida 28 de Julio and
Prolongación Huánuco. Some companies arrive on the Paseo de
La República [motorway], opposite the Estadio Nacional,
while other common arrival streets, nearby, include Jirón
Garcia Naranjo, Calle Carlos Zavala and Avenida Luna
Pizarro. However, like the first three mentioned, many
operators have depots out in the suburbs, in an attempt to
avoid the worst of Lima Centro traffic jams. For full
details of Lima bus companies and their terminals, see
Listings p. 122. Whichever terminal you arrive at, your best
bet is to hail the first decent-looking taxi you see and fix
a price - about $3 to anywhere in the central area, or $5
for anywhere else in Lima (p.87).
Always check which terminal your bus is departing from when
you buy your ticket (p.123) [and when the bus is leaving
from a bus terminal in Victoria district it's the most
dangerous district of Lima because of heavy poverty and
criminal mayors, so when you have tourist suite cases only
take a taxi to arrive there, have your camera on your body
hidden somewhere, never show that you have a camera and
never let the suitcases out of your eyes].
The major bus
companies
[Generally the "big" bus companies have climatized buses but
Peruvians are not master in handling air condition so it is
better to have a simple bus with open windows for long
trips. When you are traveling through the night take
earplugs with you for there always is someone snoring
around, also in the Peruvian "upper class"].
Cruz del Sur
[air conditioned buses without fresh air, partly
double-stack and swinging heavily on the upper deck, partly
with terrorizing video, not a joy when you love nature and a
calm ride, ask before you travel what kind of bus it is],
not the cheapest, goes for most important destinations.
Office and terminal Avenida Javier Prado at the corner with
Nicolas Arriola, T. 2256200 or 2256163, tickets can be
booked and paid for on www.cruzdelsur.com.pe. Other Cruz del
Sur Lima terminals are:
-- at Jirón Quilca 531, Lima Centro, Lima, T. 4271311 or
4235594
-- at Paseo de la República 809, La Victoria, Lima [most
dangerous district of Lima], T. 3324000 (p. 122).
Ormeño
Office and terminal at Avenida Javier Prado Este 1059 (for
reservations call T. 4275000 or 4721710, e-mail
go@grupo-ormeno.com, www.grupo-ormeno.com,
is good for main national and international services.
There is another main bus terminal of Ormeño at [Jirón]
Carlos Zavala 177, Lima Centro, T. 4275679
Chinchano
Chinchano is a subsidiary of Ormeño serving the coast as far
as Cañete, Chincha and Pisco.
Tepsa
Ticket office at Jirón Lampa 1237, Lima Centro, Lima, T.
4275642
Bus terminal at Avenida Paseo de la República 129
[motorway], T. 4275643 or 4271233
Oltursa
Avenida Aramburu 1160, Surquillo, Lima, T. 4758559
is a relatively good bus company serving most coastal
destinations (p. 122).
List of more bus companies
[The list is never complete. Ask at the hotel information or
at a travel office if you need a special connection. Mostly
there is somebody in Lima from that region where you want to
go so there is help usually very fast].
Chanchamayo
[Avenida] Manco Capac, 1052, La Victoria, Lima, T. 4701189
for Tarma, La Oroya, San Ramon and La Merced.
Cial
Avenida Abancay 947 and Terminal Paseo de la República 646,
T. 3304225
for the North coast including Mancora, Cajamarca and Huaraz
Condor de Chavin
[Avenida] Montevideo 1039, Lima Centro, Lima, T. 4288122
for Callejón de Huaylas, Huaraz and Chavín
El Condor
Avenida Carlos Zavala 101, Lima Centro, Lima, T. 4270286
for Trujillo or Huancayo
Enlaces
Avenida Paseo de la República 749 [motorway], T. 4333311
for Arequipa
Empresa Huaral
Avenida Abancay 131, Lima Centro, Lima, T. 4282254
for Huaral, Ancon and Chancay
Empresa Rosario
Jirón Ayacucho 942, [Lima Centro?], T. 5342685
for Huanuco and La Unión [departamento de Arequipa]
Emtrafasa
Jirón Humbolt 109, [Victoria?], T. 4230046
for the whole North coast and also Cajamarca
Flores Buses
[Avenida] Montevideo 529, Lima Centro, Lima, T. 4310485
Leon de Huánuco
Avenida 28 de Julio 1520, La Victoria, Lima, T. 43290880
for Cerro de Pasco, Huánuco, Tamra and La Merced
Libertadores
Avenida Grau 491, Lima Centro, Lima, T. 4268067
for Ayacucho, Satipo, and Huanta
Lobato Buses
[Avenida] 28 de Julio 2101-2107, La Victoria, Lima, T.
4749411
for Tarma, La Merced and Satipo
Mariscal Caceres
Avenida 28 de Julio 2195, La Victoria, Lima, T. 4747850
Morales Moralitos
Avenida Grau 141, [Lima Centro, Lima], T. 4286252
Palomino
Avenida 28 de Julio 1750, La Victoria, Lima
for Cusco via Nazca [Nasca] and Abancay
Señor de Luren
[Avenida] Manco Capac 611, La Victoria
for Nazca
Transportes Rodriguez
Avenida Roosevelt 354, [Lima Centro?], T. 4280506
for Huaraz, Caraz and Chimbote
Turismo Apostolo San Pedro
Avenida Grau 711, [Lima Centro], [Avenida] Paruro 1457,
[Lima Centro?], T. 4287810
for Huancayo and Tarma (p.123).
Airlines at the Lima airport
Peruvian Airlines
[LAN Peru is a Chilean company operating in Peru, expensive,
but very in time. Aero Condor is a Peruvian company,
cheaper, but not so in time. It's possible that these
differences are intentional. Many Peruvian airlines have
been closed because they where only financed by drugs. ].
Aero Condor
Juan de Arona 781, San Isidro, T. 614600
Aeroparacas
T. 2716941, e-mail aeroparacas@wayna.rcp.net.pe,
www.aeroparacas.com
LAN Peru
-- Jirón de la Union 908, Lima Centro
-- Avenida Los Incas 172, eighth floor, San Isidro
-- Avenida José Pardo, 269, Miraflores, T. 080011234 (free
phone), or call T. 2138200 for information and reservations
Star Peru
T. 7059000
TACA Peru
Avenida Comandante Espinar 331, Miraflores, T. 2136060, Fax
2136071, www.taca.com
TANS
-- Avenida Nicolas de Pierola 990, Plaza San Martín, Lima
Centro, Lima, T. 5137400, 5136800 or 4270337
-- Avenida Arequipa 5200, Miraflores, T. 2418510
-- Avenida Inca Garcilaso de la Vega 981, T. 4249438
-- C San Martín 550, Miraflores, T. 4441919,
for reservations call T. 2136000 (p.122)
International Airlines
in Lima
Aerolineas Argentinas
T. 080052200 (free)
Air Canada
T. 080052073 (free)
Air France
Avenida Alvarez Calderon 185, 6th floor, San Isidro, Lima,
T. 4449285 or 2130200
Air Madrid
T. 2141040
American Airlines
Jirón Juan de Arona 830, fourteenth floor, San Isidro, Lima
(p. 122), T. 2117000 or 080040350 (free)
Avianca
Avenida Paz Soldan 225, Oficina C-5, Los Olivos, San Isidro,
Lima, T. 4440747, 4440748 or 080051936
British Airways
represented in Lima by Air Latin at [Avenida] Andalucia 174,
Miraflores, T. 4426600, 4220889 or 4452888
Continental Airlines
Victor Andrés Belaúnde 147, Oficina 101, Edificio Real, San
Isidro, Lima, T. 2214340 or 080070030 (free)
Delta Airlines
T. 2119211
Iberia
Avenida Camino Real 390, Office 902, San Isidro, T. 4417801
KLM
-- Avenida Alvarez Calderon 185, sixth floor, San Isidro, T.
2130200, e-mail Reservations.Peru@klm.com
-- Miraflores, T. 2421240
Japan Airlines
T. 2217501
LAN Chile
Avenida José Pardo 269, Miraflores, T. 2138200 or 2138300
Lloyd Aero Boliviano
Avenida José Pardo 231, first and seventh floors,
Miraflores, Lima, T. 2415210
Varig
Avenida Camino Real 456, Central Tower office 803/804, San
Isidro, T. 2210628, 2210527 or 2210569 (p.123)